Hatching Guide

We are only a message away when you need us... but our hatching guide is as follows:

Summertime hatching

Hatching shipped eggs during the summer is its own unique experience. Luckily, USPS is well-versed in shipping sensitive items like candles and chocolates. However, there are still some opportunities for your eggs to become warm (and begin to incubate) during shipment.

To combat this problem it’s best to set your eggs, big end upwards, in the bottom of your incubator (without turning) for up to 72hrs. It is then safe to place your eggs into the turner.

Hatching Chicken Eggs

Embarking on the journey of hatching chicks is not only fascinating and thrilling but also surprisingly straightforward. Our comprehensive guide aims to demystify this process, ensuring that you can enjoy a fulfilling experience with ease. Let us simplify the steps for you, paving the way for an enriching adventure in chick hatching.

*Please note that we do not recommend using a broody hens with shipped eggs. Its always best to have consistent, temperature, humidity and controlled turning when attempting to hatch shipped eggs.

  • Temperature: 100F (37C)

    • Your incubator should be set to 100.0F (37.5C) and run for at least 24 hours prior to setting your eggs.

    • In addition, you should set a secondary thermometer inside your incubator and ensure that it reads 100F throughout the incubator. This allows you to identify any cold spots that may exist in your system.

    • Make sure your incubator is in a secure, draft-free location away from a window (to avoid changes in temperature from the sun).

  • Humidity (35-40%)

    • Humidity is the MAIN CAUSE of poor hatch rates. Setting your incubator at 35-40% allows your chicks to thrive without drowning in liquid from the humidity being too high.

    • At hatch, you can increase humidity to 50-60%. However, this should happen naturally as the chicks begin to hatch. Keep it simple.

  • Turning (1 turn per hour)

    • When your shipped eggs arrive, carefully unwrap each egg. Inspect it for cracks and breaks caused by shipping. These can often be repaired with glue.

    • Allow the eggs to rest (large end upwards) for up to 24 hours before candling and setting in your incubator.

    • If your air sacks are moving, during candling, its best to NOT TURN your shipped eggs for the first week.

    • Always remove the turner prior to hatch.

Candling your eggs

We reccomend candling your shipped eggs at 7 days and again prior to setting them for hatch. Removing them multiple times from the incubator can reduce the hatch rate. Keep it simple.

Problems with your hatch?

Wonky air sacks

Typically, funky air sacks are caused by rough shipment. If you candle your eggs prior to setting them, you should see an air sack at the big end of the egg, which is stable and attached. However, sometimes the shipping was extra rough and the air sacks become dislodged. In this case, its best to incubate them in an egg carton for at least the first 7 days, versus using your turner in your incubator. After 7-10 days the air sacks should stabilize. If they don't, the best thing to do is to keep the eggs big end up throughout hatch.

Gooey at hatch time

If your chicks are hatching "gooey" it is because the humidity was too high throughout incubation. You need to lower humidity next time. Unfortunately, its typically a fatal error of incubation and chicks are unable to survive. I cannot stress this enough... its better to undershoot humidity than to have too much.

Death rings

Death during incubation can happen for a variety of reasons, but inconsistent temperature throughout incubation is usually the main culprit. This can be caused by attempting to use a broody hen, or having cold spots in your system. Or potentially the location of your system is the issue, sunlight and air conditioning can cause inconsistent temperatures and a decreased hatch rate.

They got to lock-down, but didn't hatch...

Unfortunately this can happen.... its sad when you work so hard and then lose a hatch. Its best to try again! Dont lose hope. When your chicks get all the way to hatch and then cannot pip, its almost ALWAYS humidity. It is best to keep your humidity at 35-40% than to shoot for 50% and accidentally have them at 60%. Its best to have an internal hygrometer so that you can monitor it more accurately. Always try again! Just lower your humidity! Its ok.... I promise. <3

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